In my search for a Granny Hexagon to make blankets for my girls, I
just couldn’t find one that I really LOVED. Then I realized that there
were some gorgeous crocheted flowers with six sides, and I could make a
hex from one of those. So this pattern was born. I will do my best to
teach it to you.
ETA: I have had many questions about what yarn I used. It is Lion Brand Cotton Ease, and 3 years later, it is still holding up very nicely!
Stitches
sl st ~ slip stitch
ch ~ chain
hdc ~ half double crochet
dc ~ double crochet
Bobble stitch is made as follows (this is the same as a dc2tog, only
worked in the same st, instead of being worked over 2 sts) ~ yarn over,
insert hook through next stitch, yarn over, pull back through stitch (3
loops on hook), yarn over and pull through 2 loops (2 loops on hook)
yarn over and insert hook through same stitch yarn over, hook back
through stitch (4 loops on hook), yarn over and pull through 2 loops (3
loops on hook), yarn over and pull through all 3 loops. This may sound
hard, but it is not. Essentially you are making a dc, but skipping the
last yarn over/pull through, then making another and adding the skipped
yarn over/pull through to the end.
Here is a video for dc2tog that may help.
Make 3 chains and join in a ring. You can do 4 if you need a larger opening.
Round 1
Chain 2 (counts as 1 hdc), hdc 11 times into ring, join with a sl st to
top chain of initial chain 2 (12 stitches). Fasten off and clip yarn
leaving a 2-3 inch tail.
Round 2
Attach new color yarn by knotting to tail of the last color. Pull
through one of the hdc stitches. Chain 2, dc in same stitch ~ this
counts as your first bobble, then ch 1. Now you are going to make some
bobbles. It’s fun! (Bobble stitch into next stitch, ch 1), 11 times.
Join with a slst to top chain of initial ch 2 (12 bobble stitches).
Fasten off and clip yarn leaving a 2-3 inch tail.
Round 3
You will be working this round in the spaces in between the bobble stitches.
Tie on your next color yarn. Pull yarn through the space between bobbles
to the right of your knot. Sl st in that space. Dc 6 times in next
space, catching the yarn tails from your knot in these stitches. *Sl st
in next space, dc 6 in next space* repeat between * 5 more times. Sl st
in next space, which will already have your first sl st in it. Fasten
off and clip yarn (6 petals). At this point you will need to weave in
your end, as the next round will not connect to this yarn. You can see
the back of mine in the bottom right picture, just before I clipped the
woven in ends.
Inner flower (optional)
For my blankets, I am only putting these flowers on ¼ of the hexes, you
do what makes you happy! This one is harder to explain, but hopefully
the pictures will help.
Look at the second round, the one that is lime in my pictures. You
see how the 12 bobbles have become 6 petals because of the way the third
round pulls them? Well, we are going to be working off the post just
under the center of each of these petals.
Pull your new color yarn through the top of the post in the first
round (pink) that is just under the center of one of the petals in the
second round (lime). Sl st, *ch 2, skip a post, sl st into next post
(centered under the next petal)* repeat 5 times, your last sl st will be
in the same post as your first. Do not fasten off or clip yarn.
*Sl st into ch 2 space, hdc, dc, dc, hdc sl st, all into same ch 2
space* this will make your first petal. Repeat between * 5 more times.
Fasten off and clip yarn. Weave in ends (I catch my starting end when I
make my first petal, so at the end I only have to weave in one end.)
Round 4 and 5
These two rounds have the appearance of only one round, and are made
with the same color. You want a nice contrast in color between this yarn
and the yarn used in round 3 so that your flowers will really “pop”.
Pull yarn through the center of on of the petals in round 3 ~ you
will have 3 dc on either side of where you pull your yarn through. Sl
st, ch 3 *dc into the space in the second round between the petals, ch
3, sl st into center of next petal, ch 3* Repeat between * 4 more times,
dc into the space in the second round between the petals, ch 3, sl st
into center of next petal. Your last sl st will be in the same spot as
your first. Do not fasten off or clip yarn.
Sl st into first ch 3 space. Ch 3 (counts as one dc), dc 2, ch 2 (this
is the corner spacing), dc 3 in same ch 3 space. This is your first
corner. *Dc 3 in next ch 3 space, (dc 3, ch 2, dc 3) in next ch 3 space*
Repeat between * 4 more times. Dc 3 in next ch 3 space, sl st into top
of initial ch 3. Fasten off and clip yarn leaving a 2-3 inch tail.
Round 6
Tie on your last color yarn, work first several stitches over ends to
secure them. Pull yarn through the next stitch (you see how there are 3
dc just before the ch 2 for the corner? You are pulling your yarn
through the second dc). Ch 3 (this counts as your first dc) dc in next
stitch, (dc, ch 2, dc) in next ch 2 space. Dc in next 2 stitches. You
have made your first corner, it should look like the first picture.
*Ch, skip a stitch, dc in next 3 stitches, ch, skip a stich, dc in next 2
stitches, (dc, ch 2, dc) in next ch 2 space, dc in next 2 stiches*
Repeat between * 4 more times. Ch, skip a stitch, dc in next 3 stitches,
ch, sl st into top of initial ch 3. Fasten off and clip yarn leaving a
2-3 inch tail, weave in tail an clip.
TA-DA, you have a pretty hexagon with a flower in the middle!
I am going to attempt to explain the join-as-you-go method. Lucy, over in
Attic24, explains this well with
squares and
hexes,
but her hexes are a bit different on the last round then mine, so I
will try to teach you how it works with these specific hexes.
Work your last round until you get to the second corner (dc3, ch2,
dc3 part) complete the first 3 dc and the fist ch, now you are going to
make the second ch, but you are going to catch the corner of the hex you
are attaching it to ~ as seen in the first picture. Then complete the
next 3 dc, as seen in the second and third pictures. Now is your next ch
stitch, which you will make catching the ch stitch of the attached hex
(bottom left picture). Complete your next 3 dc, this will bring you to
the corner. Make your first ch and catch the corner of the attached hex.
*If you are only attaching to the one hex you will then complete your
second chain and keep going with the last round as normal* To keep
connecting to another hex, you are going to make your second ch but you
will catch the corner of the next hex in that stitch. Compete your next 3
dc, and then catch the connecting hex in your next ch. Continue
connecting in this manner. Once you have finished connecting however
many hexes you need, you will continue the last round to the end.
I hope you could follow all that. Feel free to ask questions, I have tried to be clear, but some of this is very visual.
ETA: To find a printer friendly version of this pattern (text only, in black, no photos)
click here.
This will bring you to the listing for this pattern on Craftsy, where
you can also find printer friendly versions of all my free patterns, and
where you can purchase my sale patterns.
©Copyright 2009 Jessie Rayot / Jessie At Home
All my videos, patterns and posts are my own work. Do not copy them in
any way. If you want to share this information with someone, share the
link to this post. If you want to share on your own blog / website, then
you may use the top photo in this post and link back to this post. You
may not give away printed copies of this post. Thank you.
This
picture shows that after you have done the first row of double crochet
and working on the row 2 for the FPdc and BPdc stitches.
When you crochet the odd number row (row 3, 5, 7, 9,… etc), crochet FPdc when you see FPdc, and vice versa.
Upon
completing row 4, where you reverse the FPdc and BPdc, the weave effect
is more obvious. The BPdc stitches are horizontal and sunken in, while
the FPdc stitches are vertical and bulging up. This give an illusion of
basket weave appearance.
Single crochet the border with 1 round of blue yarn, then, single crochet back loops only with 5 rounds of cream yarn.
