Joseph was taken to Egypt and sold to a man named Potiphar. Joseph worked hard, and soon Potiphar put him in charge of his entire household. But Potiphar’s wife was not a good woman, and one day she accused Joseph of betraying her husband. Although her words were false, Joseph was put in prison. But even in prison, he obeyed God. Joseph liked helping people. Soon he was released to help Pharaoh, the leader of all of Egypt.
“Joseph, I’ve heard you are able to explain dreams,” said Pharaoh.
“Only with God’s help,” replied Joseph.

God showed Joseph what Pharaoh’s dreams meant. Joseph said, “God is warning you. After seven years with plenty of food, the rains will stop. Nothing will grow for the next seven years. But if you plan, you can save your people from starving. You must store food during the good years. Then you can feed your people during the bad years.”

“You are a wise man, Joseph,” said Pharaoh. “You shall be in charge of all this.” Joseph worked hard to carry out the plans that God showed him. He made sure that huge amounts of grain were stored. And when the bad years came, Egypt had plenty of food to feed its people.

Crochet: Basket Weave Afghan

Crochet: Basket Weave Afghan – Baby Blanket {Pattern & Tutorial}

Basket Weave Afghan – Baby Blanket
[Pattern adapted and modified from Crochet Kim]

Difficulty Level: Intermediate, must know how to crochet FPdc, BPdc, dc, hdc, sc & ch

Finished size: approx. 42″ (W) x 33″ (L)
Gauge: Not essential as long as the hook size matches the medium worsted yarn weight.
Basket weave pattern (2 x 2 squares in the weave = 6 sts x 4 row) = approx. 1 1/2″ (W) x 1 2/5″ (L)
Border (3 sts x 6 row) = approx.  1 1/2″ (W) x 1 1/2″ (L)

Materials & Tools:
1. Yarn – Brand: Lion, Range: Cotton Ease, Weight: medium worsted, Color: Lake (Misty Cool Blue), qty: 9 balls x 100g
2. Yarn – Brand: Lion, Range: Cotton, Weight: medium worsted, Color: Natural (Soft Cream), qty: 1 ball x 140g
3. Crochet hook: H or 5 mm
4. Tapestry Needle (to weave and hide yarn ends)
5. Scissor

Abbreviations:
ch = chain
hdc= half double crochet
dc=double crochet
FPdc=Front Post double crochet
BPdc=Back Post double crochet
sc=single crochet
st = stitch
slst = slip stitch
sk=skip
fo = fasten off

Patterns:

Basket Weave Afghan
[with yarn 1 (blue)]
Starting Row: ch156, turn.
Row 1 : sk 3 ch, dc in the 4th ch from hook, dc in each ch till end, ch2, turn. (Counting the first sk 3 ch as 1dc, there is 154dc on this row)
Row 2 & 3 : skip first st, hdc1 on the next st, *FPdc3, BPdc3* repeat 25 times until last 2 sts. hdc2, ch2 (deem as first st for the following row), turn.
Row 4 & 5 : skip 1st st, hdc1 on the next st, *BPdc3, FPdc3* repeat 25 times until last 2 sts. hdc2, ch2, turn.
Repeat row 2 to 5 until row 85 or until the blanket measure about 30″, ending with either row 3 or row 5 pattern minus the ch2 st.
Border
Determine which side you want as the front of the blanket to crochet the border. There is no turning on the border, all stitches are done on the front.
[with yarn 1 (blue)]
Round 1 : Ch1, 3 sc in the same corner. sc1 on every st around the entire blanket, with 3 sc in each corner. slst to the beginning ch. fo. Don’t turn.
[with yarn 2 (cream)]
Round 2 – 6 : Ch1, sc on back loops only around entire blanket, with 3 sc in each corner. slst to the beginning ch, don’t turn. fo after finish row 6.
Weave and hide all yarn ends.

This picture shows that after you have done the first row of double crochet and working on the row 2 for the FPdc and BPdc stitches.
Notice the horizontal line created by the BPdc? Keep in mind that when ever a BPdc is done, a horizontal line will be formed by the previous row stitch’s loop.
And, for FPdc, vertical lines will be formed.
By doing FPdc and BPdc follow the pattern creates the basket weave effects.
Also, note that, when turning the crochet piece for the next row, the previous row’s BPdc will look like FPdc.

When you crochet the odd number row (row 3, 5, 7, 9,… etc), crochet FPdc when you see FPdc, and vice versa.
After completing Row 3, you will have 2 horizontal lines and this is a set of basket weave row.
To begin the next weave row (even number row, i.e. row 2, 4,6,… etc), all you need to do is reverse what you see on the previous row, i.e. crochet FPdc when you see a BPdc stitch, vice versa.

Upon completing row 4, where you reverse the FPdc and BPdc, the weave effect is more obvious. The BPdc stitches are horizontal and sunken in, while the FPdc stitches are vertical and bulging up. This give an illusion of basket weave appearance.
Continue the basket weave for the entire blanket until your reach row 85 or about 30″ length or until your last balls of yarn is close to finish.

Single crochet the border with 1 round of blue yarn, then, single crochet back loops only with 5 rounds of cream yarn.
Remember to single crochet 3 stitches in each stitch of the 4 corners.
Fasten off the yarn, weave and hide the yarn ends within the stitches.
~~~Done! Bravo~~~

{More photos and story on Page 1.}

Crochet Floral Granny

In my search for a Granny Hexagon to make blankets for my girls, I just couldn’t find one that I really LOVED. Then I realized that there were some gorgeous crocheted flowers with six sides, and I could make a hex from one of those. So this pattern was born. I will do my best to teach it to you.
ETA: I have had many questions about what yarn I used. It is Lion Brand Cotton Ease, and 3 years later, it is still holding up very nicely!
Stitches
sl st ~ slip stitch
ch ~ chain
hdc ~ half double crochet
dc ~ double crochet
Bobble stitch is made as follows (this is the same as a dc2tog, only worked in the same st, instead of being worked over 2 sts) ~ yarn over, insert hook through next stitch, yarn over, pull back through stitch (3 loops on hook), yarn over and pull through 2 loops (2 loops on hook) yarn over and insert hook through same stitch yarn over, hook back through stitch (4 loops on hook), yarn over and pull through 2 loops (3 loops on hook), yarn over and pull through all 3 loops. This may sound hard, but it is not. Essentially you are making a dc, but skipping the last yarn over/pull through, then making another and adding the skipped yarn over/pull through to the end. Here is a video for dc2tog that may help.
Make 3 chains and join in a ring. You can do 4 if you need a larger opening.
Round 1
Chain 2 (counts as 1 hdc), hdc 11 times into ring, join with a sl st to top chain of initial chain 2 (12 stitches). Fasten off and clip yarn leaving a 2-3 inch tail.

Round 2
Attach new color yarn by knotting to tail of the last color. Pull through one of the hdc stitches. Chain 2, dc in same stitch ~ this counts as your first bobble, then ch 1. Now you are going to make some bobbles. It’s fun! (Bobble stitch into next stitch, ch 1), 11 times. Join with a slst to top chain of initial ch 2 (12 bobble stitches). Fasten off and clip yarn leaving a 2-3 inch tail.

Round 3
You will be working this round in the spaces in between the bobble stitches.
Tie on your next color yarn. Pull yarn through the space between bobbles to the right of your knot. Sl st in that space. Dc 6 times in next space, catching the yarn tails from your knot in these stitches. *Sl st in next space, dc 6 in next space* repeat between * 5 more times. Sl st in next space, which will already have your first sl st in it. Fasten off and clip yarn (6 petals). At this point you will need to weave in your end, as the next round will not connect to this yarn. You can see the back of mine in the bottom right picture, just before I clipped the woven in ends.

Inner flower (optional)
For my blankets, I am only putting these flowers on ¼ of the hexes, you do what makes you happy! This one is harder to explain, but hopefully the pictures will help.
Look at the second round, the one that is lime in my pictures. You see how the 12 bobbles have become 6 petals because of the way the third round pulls them? Well, we are going to be working off the post just under the center of each of these petals.
Pull your new color yarn through the top of the post in the first round (pink) that is just under the center of one of the petals in the second round (lime). Sl st, *ch 2, skip a post, sl st into next post (centered under the next petal)* repeat 5 times, your last sl st will be in the same post as your first. Do not fasten off or clip yarn.
*Sl st into ch 2 space, hdc, dc, dc, hdc sl st, all into same ch 2 space* this will make your first petal. Repeat between * 5 more times. Fasten off and clip yarn. Weave in ends (I catch my starting end when I make my first petal, so at the end I only have to weave in one end.)

Round 4 and 5
These two rounds have the appearance of only one round, and are made with the same color. You want a nice contrast in color between this yarn and the yarn used in round 3 so that your flowers will really “pop”.
Pull yarn through the center of on of the petals in round 3 ~ you will have 3 dc on either side of where you pull your yarn through. Sl st, ch 3 *dc into the space in the second round between the petals, ch 3, sl st into center of next petal, ch 3* Repeat between * 4 more times, dc into the space in the second round between the petals, ch 3, sl st into center of next petal. Your last sl st will be in the same spot as your first. Do not fasten off or clip yarn.
Sl st into first ch 3 space. Ch 3 (counts as one dc), dc 2, ch 2 (this is the corner spacing), dc 3 in same ch 3 space. This is your first corner. *Dc 3 in next ch 3 space, (dc 3, ch 2, dc 3) in next ch 3 space* Repeat between * 4 more times. Dc 3 in next ch 3 space, sl st into top of initial ch 3. Fasten off and clip yarn leaving a 2-3 inch tail.

Round 6
Tie on your last color yarn, work first several stitches over ends to secure them. Pull yarn through the next stitch (you see how there are 3 dc just before the ch 2 for the corner? You are pulling your yarn through the second dc). Ch 3 (this counts as your first dc) dc in next stitch, (dc, ch 2, dc) in next ch 2 space. Dc in next 2 stitches. You have made your first corner, it should look like the first picture.
*Ch, skip a stitch, dc in next 3 stitches, ch, skip a stich, dc in next 2 stitches, (dc, ch 2, dc) in next ch 2 space, dc in next 2 stiches* Repeat between * 4 more times. Ch, skip a stitch, dc in next 3 stitches, ch, sl st into top of initial ch 3. Fasten off and clip yarn leaving a 2-3 inch tail, weave in tail an clip.
TA-DA, you have a pretty hexagon with a flower in the middle!

I am going to attempt to explain the join-as-you-go method. Lucy, over in Attic24, explains this well with squares and hexes, but her hexes are a bit different on the last round then mine, so I will try to teach you how it works with these specific hexes.
Work your last round until you get to the second corner (dc3, ch2, dc3 part) complete the first 3 dc and the fist ch, now you are going to make the second ch, but you are going to catch the corner of the hex you are attaching it to ~ as seen in the first picture. Then complete the next 3 dc, as seen in the second and third pictures. Now is your next ch stitch, which you will make catching the ch stitch of the attached hex (bottom left picture). Complete your next 3 dc, this will bring you to the corner. Make your first ch and catch the corner of the attached hex. *If you are only attaching to the one hex you will then complete your second chain and keep going with the last round as normal* To keep connecting to another hex, you are going to make your second ch but you will catch the corner of the next hex in that stitch. Compete your next 3 dc, and then catch the connecting hex in your next ch. Continue connecting in this manner. Once you have finished connecting however many hexes you need, you will continue the last round to the end.

I hope you could follow all that. Feel free to ask questions, I have tried to be clear, but some of this is very visual.

ETA: To find a printer friendly version of this pattern (text only, in black, no photos) click here. This will bring you to the listing for this pattern on Craftsy, where you can also find printer friendly versions of all my free patterns, and where you can purchase my sale patterns.

©Copyright 2009 Jessie Rayot / Jessie At Home All my videos, patterns and posts are my own work. Do not copy them in any way. If you want to share this information with someone, share the link to this post. If you want to share on your own blog / website, then you may use the top photo in this post and link back to this post. You may not give away printed copies of this post. Thank you.

Millionaire's Afghan

Looking for the ultimate crocheted afghan pattern?  Look no further than the
Millionaire's Afghan.  With a wide variety of yarn colors and crochet
stitches, this colorful crocheted afghan will brighten up any room in
your home.  This is also a great project for trying new crochet
techniques and practicing your crochet skills.

Millionaire's Afghan


Materials:

    2 skeins Naturally Caron Country yarn in Green Sheen (A)
    2 skeins Naturally Caron Country yarn in Loden Forest (B)
    2 skeins Naturally Caron Country yarn in Claret (C)
    2 skeins Naturally Caron Country yarn in Spruce (D)
    2 skeins Naturally Caron Country yarn in Chocolate Truffle (E)
    2 skeins Naturally Caron Country yarn in Gilded Age (F)
    2 skeins Naturally Caron Country yarn in Deep Purple (G)
    1 skein Naturally Caron Country yarn in Sunset (H)
    1 skein Naturally Caron Country yarn in Soft Sunshine (I)
    1 skein Naturally Caron Country yarn in Black (J)
    US H-8 (5mm) crochet hook, or size to obtain gauge
    Removable stitch markers
    Yarn needle
    Diagram



Gauge:  One large square measures 4"/10cm across



Special Stitches:

    beg-Cl: Beginning cluster—Yarn over, insert hook in indicated
ch-space and draw up a loop, yarn over and draw through 2 loops on hook;
 yarn over, insert hook in same ch-space and draw up a loop, yarn over
and draw through 2 loops on hook; yarn over and draw through all 3 loops
 on hook.
    Cl: Cluster—Yarn over, insert hook in indicated ch-space and draw up
 a loop, yarn over and draw through 2 loops on hook; [yarn over, insert
hook in same ch-space and draw up a loop, yarn over and draw through 2
loops on hook] twice; yarn over and draw through all 4 loops on hook.
    FPdc: Front-post double crochet—Yarn over, insert hook from front to
 back and then to front again around post of stitch, yarn over and draw
up loop, [yarn over and draw through 2 loops on hook] twice.
    make-join: Drop loop from hook, insert hook from front to back in
next joining location of top of strip or neighboring piece, return
dropped loop to hook, draw the dropped loop through the stitch or space.



Notes:

    Throw is worked in five long strips. Each strip is worked from the
lower edge upwards, and is made from rectangles, small squares, and
large squares. After all five strips have been made, the strips are
single crocheted together. If desired, all pieces (rectangles, small
squares, and large squares) can be made separately, arranged as shown in
 assembly diagram and sewn or single crocheted together.
    Refer to the assembly diagram frequently. The assembly diagram shows
 the order in which squares and rectangles are made in each strip. The
diagram also shows the colors used when making each piece.
    Large and small squares are worked in joined rounds, with RS facing
at all times. A "join-as-you-go" technique is used to join the squares
to the top of the partially completed strip and previous squares.
Squares are joined to previous pieces while working the last round
(joining round). When the first piece in a strip is a square, the square
 is not joined to any previous pieces.
    Rectangles are worked back and forth in rows. The first row of most
rectangles is worked directly onto the top edge of the partially
completed strip. When the first piece in a strip is a rectangle, the
first row is not worked directly onto the edge of previous pieces.
Instead, a traditional foundation chain and row of single crochet
stitches is worked.
    To change color, work last stitch of old color to last yarn over.
Yarn over with new color and draw through all loops on hook to complete
stitch. Proceed with new color. Fasten off old color.



Instructions:
Throw measures approximately 40"x56"

Strips
Refer to the assembly diagram for arrangement of each strip. Make each
strip from the lower edge upwards. For example, strip #1 begins with a
rectangle, then 4 small squares are made and joined to the top of the
rectangle, 4 more small squares are made and joined to the previous 4
small squares, 2 large squares are then worked and joined to the
previous small squares, and so on.

    Strip #1: Strip #1 is the left most strip. Begin by working a
beginning rectangle (instructions below), working 6 rows with I and 6
rows with D. Continue strip by working and joining small squares, large
squares, and rectangles in the order and color combinations shown in
assembly diagram.
    
    Strip #2: Begin by working a beginning large square (instructions
below), working 2 rounds with C and 2 rounds with J. Continue strip by
working and joining large squares, rectangles, and small squares in the
order and color combinations shown in assembly diagram.
    
    Strip #3: Strip #3 is the center strip. Begin by working a beginning
 rectangle, working 2 rows with H, 2 rows with B and 2 rows with F.
Continue strip by working and joining large squares, rectangles and
small squares in the order and color combinations shown in assembly
diagram.
    
    Strip #4: Begin by working a beginning rectangle, working 3 rows
with A, 2 rows with C, 2 rows with D, 2 rows with G and 3 rows with I.
Continue strip by working and joining small squares, large squares, and
rectangles in the order and color combinations shown in assembly
diagram.
    
    Strip #5: Begin by working a beginning large square, working all 4
rounds with F. Continue strip by working and joining large squares,
rectangles, and small squares in the order and color combinations shown
in assembly diagram.



Beginning Rectangle
Follow these instructions when working first rectangle of strips #1, #3
and #4 only. For all other rectangles, follow the instructions in the
Joined Rectangle section.

Ch 32.

    Row 1 (RS): Sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc in each remaining ch across,
turn—31 sc.
    
    Row 2: Ch 3 (counts as dc here and throughout), dc in each st
across, turn.
    
    Row 3: Ch 1, sc in first dc, *FPdc around next dc, sc in next dc;
repeat from * across, turn.
    
    Refer to assembly diagram for number of rows to be worked in this
rectangle. Repeat Rows 2 and 3 until one less row than specified in
assembly diagram has been worked.
    
    Last Row: Ch 1, sc in each st across.
    
    Fasten off.



Joined Rectangle

    Row 1: With RS facing, join yarn with sc in first corner of
partially completed strip, work 31 more sc evenly spaced across the top
edge of the strip.
    
    Beginning with Row 2, complete rectangle as for beginning rectangle.



Joined Small Square

    With first color, ch 4; join with sl st in first ch to form a ring.
    
    Round 1 (RS): Ch 3 (counts as dc here and throughout), 2 dc in ring,
 ch 3, [3 dc in ring, ch 3] 3 times; join with sl st in top of beginning
 ch—12 dc and 4 ch-3 sps. Fasten off first color. Note: If the same
color is used for Rounds 1 and 2, do not fasten off.

Mark Joining Locations

    Before joining first small square to top of partially completed
strip, place 17 stitch markers evenly spaced across the top edge. Place
the first marker in one corner and the last marker in the opposite
corner. Space the other 15 markers evenly between the first and last
marker. These markers indicate the joining locations for the 4 small
squares that will be joined to the top edge.
    
    When joining the edge of the 2nd, 3rd and 4th small squares to the
edge of the previous small square, the joining locations are the corner
ch-1 sps, and the 3 ch-1 sps across the edge. Place markers in these
locations on the previous small square, if desired.
    
    Work one of the following Round 2 joining rounds, as appropriate.
When instructed to make-join, insert hook in next joining location
(marked location on top of strip, or next joining ch-sp on edge of
previous square).

Joining First Small Square to Top of Strip

    Round 2 (joining round): With RS facing, join 2nd color with sc in
top of beginning ch, ch 1, sk next dc, sc in next dc, ch 1; join next
edge of current square to top of strip, as follows: (sc, ch 1,
make-join, sc) in next ch-3 sp, ch 1, make-join, sc in next dc, ch 1,
make-join, sk next dc, sc in next dc, ch 1, make-join, (sc, ch 1,
make-join, sc) in next ch-3 sp; complete unjoined sides, as follows: *ch
 1, sc in next dc, ch 1, sk next dc, sc in next dc, ch 1, (sc, ch 1, sc)
 in next ch-3 sp; repeat from * around, ch 1; join with sl st in first
sc. Fasten off.
    
    Joining 2nd, 3rd and 4th Small Square to Top of Strip and Previous
Small Square
    
    Round 2 (joining round): With RS facing, join 2nd color with sc in
top of beginning ch, ch 1, sk next dc, sc in next dc; join next edge of
current square to side edge of previous square, as follows: ch 1, (sc,
ch 1, make-join inserting hook in top corner ch-1 sp of previous square,
 sc) in next ch-3 sp, ch 1, make-join, sc in next dc, ch 1, make-join,
sk next dc, sc in next dc, ch 1, make-join, (sc, ch 1, make-join
inserting hook in same joining location as corner of previous square,
sc) in next ch-3 sp; join next edge of current square to top of strip,
as follows: ch 1, make-join, sc in next dc, ch 1, make-join, sk next dc,
 sc in next dc, ch 1, make-join, (sc, ch 1, make-join, sc) in next ch-3
sp; complete unjoined sides, as follows: *ch 1, sc in next dc, ch 1, sk
next dc, sc in next dc, ch 1, (sc, ch 1, sc) in next ch-1 sp, ch 1; join
 with sl st in first sc. Fasten off.
    
    Join 2nd row of small squares in same manner, joining into the ch-1
sps and corner ch-3 sps of the previous row of small squares. Join the
inner corner to the corresponding corner of the square diagonally across
 from the current square.



Beginning Large Square
Follow these instructions when working first square of strips #2 and #5
only. For all other large squares, follow the instructions in the Joined
 Large Square section.

Ch 4; join with sl st in first ch to form a ring.

    Round 1 (RS): Ch 4 (counts as dc, ch 1), [dc in ring, ch 1] 11
times; join with sl st in 3rd ch of beginning ch—12 dc and 12 ch-1 sps.
    
    Round 2: Ch 3, beg-Cl in first ch-1 sp, *ch 3, Cl in next ch-1 sp;
repeat from * around, ch 1, hdc in beg-Cl (forming last ch-sp)—12
clusters and 12 ch-sps.
    
    Round 3: Ch 1, sc in first ch-sp (formed by ch-1, hdc at end of last
 round), *ch 5, sc in next ch-3 sp; repeat from * around, ch 2, dc in
first sc (forming last ch-5 sp)—12 sc and 12 ch-5 sps.
    
    Round 4: Ch 1, sc in first ch-5 sp (formed by last ch-2 and dc of
previous round), ch 5, sc in next ch-5 sp, ch 1, (5 dc, ch 3, 5 dc) in
next ch-5 sp (corner made), *ch 1, sc in next ch-5 sp, ch 5, sc in next
ch-5 sp, ch 1, (5 dc, ch 3, 5 dc) in next ch-5 sp; repeat from * around;
 ch 1, join with sl st in first sc. Fasten off.



Joined Large Square

Mark Joining Locations

    Before joining first large square to top of partially completed
strip, place 9 stitch markers evenly spaced across the top edge. Place
the first marker in one corner and the last marker in the opposite
corner. Space the other 7 markers evenly between the first and last
marker. These markers indicate the joining locations for the 2 large
squares that will be joined to the top edge.
    
    When joining the edge of the 2nd large square to the edge of the
first large square, the joining locations are the corner ch-3 sps and
the center ch-5 sp across the edge. Place markers in these locations on
the previous large square, if desired.
    
    Begin Square: Work same as beginning large square, through Round 3.
Work one of the following Round 4 joining rounds, as appropriate. When
instructed to make-join, insert hook in next joining location (marked
location on top of strip, or next joining ch-sp on edge of first
square).

Joining First Large Square to Top of Strip

    Round 4 (joining round): Ch 1, sc in first ch-5 sp, ch 5, sc in next
 ch-5 sp, ch 1, join next edge of current square to top of strip, as
follows: (5 dc, ch 2, make-join, ch 1, 5 dc) in next ch-5 sp, ch 1, sc
in next ch-5 sp, ch 3, make-join, ch 2, sc in next ch-5 sp, ch 1, (5 dc,
 ch 2, make-join, 5 dc) in next ch-5 sp; complete unjoined sides, as
follows: *ch 1, sc in next ch-5 sp, ch 5, sc in next ch-5 sp, ch 1, (5
dc, ch 3, 5 dc) in next ch-5 sp; repeat from * around; ch 1, join with
sl st in first sc. Fasten off.
    
    Joining 2nd Large Square to Top of Strip and First Large Square
    
    Round 4 (joining round): Ch 1, sc in first ch-sp, ch 5, sc in next
ch-5 sp, ch 1; join next edge of current square to side edge of first
square, as follows: (5 dc, ch 2, make-join inserting hook in top corner
ch-3 sp of first square, ch 1, 5 dc) in next ch-5 sp, ch 1, sc in next
ch-5 sp, ch 3, make-join, ch 2, sc in next ch-5 sp, ch 1, (5 dc, ch 2,
make-join inserting hook in same joining location as corner of first
square, ch 1, 5 dc) in next ch-5 sp; join next edge of current square to
 top of strip, as follows: ch 1, sc in next ch-5 sp, ch 3, make-join, ch
 2, sc in next ch-5 sp, ch 1, (5 dc, ch 2, make-join, ch 1, 5 dc) in
next ch-5 sp; complete unjoined sides, as follows: *ch 1, sc in next
ch-5 sp, ch 5, sc in next ch-5 sp, ch 1, (5 dc, ch 3, 5 dc) in next ch-5
 sp; ch 1, join with sl st in first sc. Fasten off.
    
    Join 2nd row of large squares in same manner, joining into the
corner ch-3 sps and side ch-5 sps of the previous row of large squares.
Join the inner corner to the corresponding corner of the square
diagonally across from the current square.



Finishing

    Using yarn needle, weave in all ends. Block strips.
    
    Seam Strips: Holding WS of strip #1 and strip #2 together (RS facing
 you) and working through both thicknesses, join E with sc at beginning
of strips, sc evenly across to join strips together. Fasten off. Repeat
to join strip #3, #4, and #5.



Edging

With RS facing, join E with sc anywhere in edge of throw.

    Round 1: Sc evenly spaced around all edges, working 3 sc in each
corner; join with sl st in first sc.
    
    Round 2: Ch 1, working in back loops only, sc in each sc around,
working 2 sc in each corner; join witih sl st in first sc. Fasten off.

Bulky Winter Socks

Bulky Winter Socks

No matter how much I want winter to be gone, it ain't going anywhere soon. This is a pair of socks that I made over the last two days. I started and finished the first one while pretending to watch television with everyone last night - sorry, I just can not get into the drama of being a logger. Much like I couldn't get into the riveting thrill of being a crab fisherman or a tar-sands employee driving a big-arsed dump truck. However, The Two Ronnies love that stuff and they like me sitting with them, not upstairs by myself, where I could be working peacefully in my studio room:D

I started the second one last night and finished it this afternoon on my my lunch and late coffee break. For the experienced crocheter, these socks are a mindless way to make the busride home pleasant.

These aren't a sock of the month, but I felt like putting them here, anyway, because they are so quick. I think I might go stash diving to see if I have any more Armytage left because I want to make MORE tonight and tomorrow.

Gauge: about 3.25 sts/inch....."3 and a bit" in sc blo.
Hook: 5.0mm
Yarn: Sean's Sheep "Armytage" in black/white variegated. This is a bulky yarn that is somewhat thick and thin (but not dramatically so). It is very lofty and soft, almost like roving, and very similar to a Bernat yarn made for felting, but a bit thinner. 100% wool. I used two skeins, thinking I would need that much, and I started each sock with a fresh skein, but I had half skeins left over, so I am going to go out on a limb and suggest that up to size 8-9 can get away with one skein....but buy two anyway. Edit: I started on a second pair and no, there is not enough. You need two skeins to make a pair. Damn. I was hopeful.
Cost: about $2/skein.

Chain 7, flip the foundation chain over, and starting with the second chain from the hook, work 6 slip stitches across. Pivot the chain and work 6 single crochet into the top loops. Errata: Pivot the work again and make 6 sc into the 6 ss you worked previously, for a total of 12 sc. Place split ring markers into the side edge stitches of your work.

First increase round:
Work 2 sc before and after each marked stitch.

Second increase round:
Repeat as before.

Third round:
Work even.

Repeat rounds two and three until there are 28 sts. Try it on. If you can get your toes in there, great. If it's too snug, add another increase and work-even round, then try again. If you supsect that 28 sts might be too much, stop at 24 sts and try it on.

When you are ready to work in even rounds, keep one marker to show the beginning of your round, moving it upwards as the work progresses, drop the other marker, and work even in a spiral (not turning or joining), working your single crochet through the back loop only (sc blo). Work until the sock fits to just below the ankle bone. Sc blo produces a nice stretchy fabric that has lots of give, so even if it looks too short, give it a little stretch to see how far up your foot it goes. With sc blo, you can have a bit of negative ease if you like.

Working the heel:

Sc in the marked stitch, replace the marker, and now work 14 sc through both top loops across what is now the top of your foot. Ch 1, turn, leaving the other sts unworked. 14 sts equals half the amount of the sock (28 sts). If you have more or less than that, then divide your number in half, and work the heel on that amount of sts instead.

Next row: sc in 14 sts, ch 1, turn. 13 sc.
Next row: sc in 13 sts, ch 1, turn, leaving one stitch unworked. 12 sc.
Next row: sc in 12 sts, ch 1, turn, leaving one stitch unworked. 11 sc.

Continue as established, leaving one stitch unworked until you have 7 sts.

Next row: ch 1, turn, sc 7 sts, sc in side edge of sc just worked and sc in skipped st below. Work ss in side of this sc just made, turn. 9 sc.
Next row: skip ss, sc in 9 sc across, sc in side edge of sc just worked and sc in skipped st below. Work ss in side of this sc just made, turn. 11 sc.

From now on you will not be increasing by two's, but will work a sc2tog to join the "seam" in your short row heel.

Next row: skip ss, sc in 11 sc across, insert hook into side edge of sc just worked, as if to make sc, but instead draw up a loop and do not complete the stitch. Insert hook into next skipped st, draw up a loop, yarn over, and draw through all loops on hook - sc2tog just made. Place a ss in side edge as established before, and turn. 12 sc.

Repeat this row, working back and forth until you have 14 sc. You will note that there is still length to work on before you meet up with the other stitches to continue working in the round. If you just proceed to completing the round and going back to work in a spiral again, you will have holes on either side of your sock. Ensuring that the right side is facing you (if you can see inside the sock then the right side is not facing you - if that is the case, work back across the heel - 14 sc - no worries) work a sc3tog with your 14th sc and that odd little no-man's land before the top of the foot begins again. Work across the front of the sock (14 sts in sc blo), do the same thing on the opposite side.

Leg:

Work 5 rnds in sc blo.

Round 6: work 4 decreases (sc2tog) evenly on this round. 24 sc.
Round 7&8: work even, sc blo, on 24 sts.
Round 9: Work hdc in both top loops of each sc around.
Round 10: Work front post dc around each hdc. Join first st to last with a ss and turn.
Round 11: Work back post dc around each fpdc. Join beg to end with ss and turn.
Round 12: Work fpdc around each bpdc. Join with beg to end with ss, fasten off.

Weave in ends and enjoy your socks.

Ribbed Slipper Pattern

Ribbed Slipper Pattern

This slipper has the front and back post dc's around the entire slipper. I think this gives the slipper a thick textured around the entire foot.

So here is my pattern for the ribbed slipper
Materials:
Worsted Weight Yarn
Size g hook

Easy Broomstick Lace Collar, or Scarf, Pattern

March 7, 2012

tags: broomstick lace, collar, cowl, Crochet, easy, neck gaiter, pattern, scarf

This is a super-easy project for learning broomstick lace. I really shouldn’t even call it a pattern! I made this one with some really soft lighter weight yarn (kinda like a Caron Simply Soft), but this is flexible – you can use anything you’d like. I really wanted to get a shot of this being worn, but Nicky hasn’t been available during daylight hours to take pictures. I tried to get Penny to model it, but he was not having it. Not at all. Ready to make this lacy collar/neck gaiter/cowl/scarf? Let’s do it:

Chunky Braided Cowl

If you know me you know I love chunky yarns! I've seen these fun braided scarf popping up everywhere and they are very simple to make. Here is my version of a Chunky Braided Cowl. Enjoy! 

Chunky Braided Cowl

Cottage Relaxation Granny Afghan

Hits: 1037

Cottage Relaxation Granny Afghan

by Michael Sellick - The Crochet Crowd

©2012 The Crochet Crowd

Square Afghan will measure approximately 5.25 Feet square using 14 balls of 100 g or 3.5 oz yarn balls. Use more balls if desired to be bigger. 
Each square took me roughly 9 minutes each to complete. This afghan has 128 squares and was assembled on a diagonal instead of horizontal axis. To get the same size in a horizontal axis, you will need 143 squares instead and you will need 3 extra balls to pull off the 143 squares. 
11 Balls were used for the squares and three were used for the attaching and perimeter of this afghan.

Follow Video Tutorial For This

Follow Mosaic Square Video Only

http://www.allfreecrochet.com/Crochet-Videos/How-to-Make-a-Knotless-Russian-Join/ct/1

Learn how to make a knotless Russian join with Emi Harrington. This is a really neat technique that will leave your patterns flawless. Watch this video, get some free crochet patterns and practice! Related Projects
Read more at http://www.allfreecrochet.com/Crochet-Videos/How-to-Make-a-Knotless-Russian-Join/ct/1#QevxOwr2zg9AgxWq.99

Learn how to make a knotless Russian join with Emi Harrington. This is a really neat technique that will leave your patterns flawless. Watch this video, get some free crochet patterns and practice! Related Projects
Read more at http://www.allfreecrochet.com/Crochet-Videos/How-to-Make-a-Knotless-Russian-Join/ct/1#QevxOwr2zg9AgxWq.99

Free Crochet Pattern... Meringue Cowl

Free Crochet Pattern... Meringue Cowl

The Meringue Cowl is a sweet and simple cowl that works up lightning fast.  Like a luscious dollop of meringue, this cowl is worked in a beautiful and easy to crochet v-stitch.  A great project for quick gifts, but don't forget to make yourself one too!

Meringue Cowl
By Jennifer Dickerson

Materials:

• N (9.0 mm) Crochet Hook
• 1 Skein Lion Brand Wool Ease Thick and Quick (Colorway shown in "Fisherman")
• Tapestry Needle (for weaving in ends)

Sizing: 

• Width-Scarf shown is 6 inches wide, but you can easily make your scarf wider by working more rows.
• Circumference-Cowl pictured is 24 inches around. 

Instructions:

(Cowl is worked lengthwise and seamed)

Ch 49 (To change circumference sizing, chain in multiples of 15+4).

Foundation Row: In the 4th chain from the hook, work dc, ch 1, dc in the same ch. *Skip two chains and then in the next ch, work dc, ch 1, dc in the same ch. Repeat from * to end.

Row 1: Turn, ch 3 and work dc, ch 1, dc in each of the chain 1 spaces from the previous row (center of each "V"). At the end of the row, finish with a dc in the last space (ch 3 turning space).

Repeat row 1 until desired width is reached.  Cowl shown is a total of 6 rows of stitch pattern, with yarn leftovers.

Finishing:

Seam and weave in any ends.  I left a long tail when I was finished and just used that to seam it together.

Granny Square Slippers

Rewritten & worded By Julie A. Bolduc These slippers are very similar to the slippers my grandmother made for me when I was a child. These are made with basic granny squares. Read Note below.
Materials Needed:
3oz worsted weight yarn
Red Heart Super Saver, Art. E.301 Color: 375 Raspberry was used in the example
Size G aluminum crochet hook
Yarn needle
Yarn Thickness: 4mm
Gauge: Small square is 3" x 3"
Finished Size: Fits womans size 6-8 shoe size.
Skill Level: Easy

Note:You will need the Basic Granny Square pattern available on this site to make these slippers.
Click image to see full size. The diagram is not perfect on purpose to show the different layers of the squares.

You will need to make 3 small granny squares and 1 large one for each slipper.
Follow the Basic Granny Square pattern and make 6 rounds for the sole of the slipper and make 3 rounds for the small grannies.
Now place the large granny square down in front of you and fold the left and right corners to the center. See the empty square at the top and bottom? Well this is where the small grannies will go. Use one for the toe and the other two for the heel and upper foot.
Stitch the small grannies in place around the outer edges wrong sides together using an overcast stitch. If you use a varigated yarn for all the squares, the stitches may not even show. If you use a color scheme where you are using up scraps to make the slippers, then use the same color yarn as you did for the last round on all the squares. This way you will not see the stitches as easily.
Toe
Stitch all the way around the toe portion matching up the right corner of the large square to the bottom corner of the small square and work your way around the back to the bottom corner of the small square. This should match up all the way around.
Upper Foot Now to stitch the upper foot to the sole, start at the right corner of the small square and half way from the bottom corner of the sole. Stitch around half way to the left corner, then pick up the other small square and stitch from the heel's left corner around the bottom corners of both the heel and the sole to the right corner of the heel and to the halfway point of where you joined the upper foot. Fasten off and weave ends into work.
To make a finishing touch, tie yarn onto the left corner of the upper foot and working onthe outside, sc in each st around to give it a finised edge.
Note:I designed them from memory so they are not exactly like the one's my grandmother made for me. I am not intending to say they are all my own creation because they are not. That is why they are free. I have used my own words to write these instructions. I know they may look identical to others you may have seen but that is my point. I just wanted to make this pattern available to anyone who wanted this design. I do not know who the original designer for the concept of these slippers was but here is the way I put them together. Written by Julie A. Bolduc Copyright 2007 © f124002

Plaid Crochet Afghan Pattern

Plaid Crochet Afghan Pattern

MATERIALS:
3 colors 4 ply worsted-weight yarn [ 21 oz. A (windsor blue)
15 oz B (country blue)
8 oz. C (black)
size I hook.

SIZE: approximately 44 x 49 inches, excluding fringe.

DIRECTIONS:
With A, ch 191.

Row 1: Dc in 5th ch from hook, * ch 1, sk 1, dc in next ch, repeat from * across [94 sp]. Ch 4, turn. (Ch 4 counts as first dc and ch 1 of next row)

Row 2: Dc in next dc, * ch 1, dc in next dc, repeat from * across, ending with dc in 3rd ch of turning ch. Ch 4, turn.

Repeat Row 2, work 4 more rows with A.

Continue in following sequence starting with the 4 rows of B.

Color sequence for rows: * 6 rows A, 4 rows B, 2 rows C, 2 rows A, 2 rows B, 2 rows A, 2 rows C, 4 rows B, repeat from * 4 more times. Work 6 rows A: 126 rows.

Vertical weaving: Using tapestry needle threaded with 3 strands of same color, weave yam vertically through spaces. Begin at side edge, weave over and under each mesh space, leaving 7 inches for fringe at each end. Cut yarn. Weave 2nd vertical row beginning with under, then over. Continue to alternate weaving each row in the following sequence: * 4 rows A, 2 rows B, 2 rows C, 2 rows A, 2 rows B, 2 rows A, 2 rows C, 2 rows B. Repeat from * 4 more times, ending with 4 rows A.

Work 1 row sc along edges with A.

Fringe: Knot 3 strands of one row with 3 strands of next row. Repeat along both ends. Trim evenly.