Bulky Winter Socks

Bulky Winter Socks

No matter how much I want winter to be gone, it ain't going anywhere soon. This is a pair of socks that I made over the last two days. I started and finished the first one while pretending to watch television with everyone last night - sorry, I just can not get into the drama of being a logger. Much like I couldn't get into the riveting thrill of being a crab fisherman or a tar-sands employee driving a big-arsed dump truck. However, The Two Ronnies love that stuff and they like me sitting with them, not upstairs by myself, where I could be working peacefully in my studio room:D

I started the second one last night and finished it this afternoon on my my lunch and late coffee break. For the experienced crocheter, these socks are a mindless way to make the busride home pleasant.

These aren't a sock of the month, but I felt like putting them here, anyway, because they are so quick. I think I might go stash diving to see if I have any more Armytage left because I want to make MORE tonight and tomorrow.

Gauge: about 3.25 sts/inch....."3 and a bit" in sc blo.
Hook: 5.0mm
Yarn: Sean's Sheep "Armytage" in black/white variegated. This is a bulky yarn that is somewhat thick and thin (but not dramatically so). It is very lofty and soft, almost like roving, and very similar to a Bernat yarn made for felting, but a bit thinner. 100% wool. I used two skeins, thinking I would need that much, and I started each sock with a fresh skein, but I had half skeins left over, so I am going to go out on a limb and suggest that up to size 8-9 can get away with one skein....but buy two anyway. Edit: I started on a second pair and no, there is not enough. You need two skeins to make a pair. Damn. I was hopeful.
Cost: about $2/skein.

Chain 7, flip the foundation chain over, and starting with the second chain from the hook, work 6 slip stitches across. Pivot the chain and work 6 single crochet into the top loops. Errata: Pivot the work again and make 6 sc into the 6 ss you worked previously, for a total of 12 sc. Place split ring markers into the side edge stitches of your work.

First increase round:
Work 2 sc before and after each marked stitch.

Second increase round:
Repeat as before.

Third round:
Work even.

Repeat rounds two and three until there are 28 sts. Try it on. If you can get your toes in there, great. If it's too snug, add another increase and work-even round, then try again. If you supsect that 28 sts might be too much, stop at 24 sts and try it on.

When you are ready to work in even rounds, keep one marker to show the beginning of your round, moving it upwards as the work progresses, drop the other marker, and work even in a spiral (not turning or joining), working your single crochet through the back loop only (sc blo). Work until the sock fits to just below the ankle bone. Sc blo produces a nice stretchy fabric that has lots of give, so even if it looks too short, give it a little stretch to see how far up your foot it goes. With sc blo, you can have a bit of negative ease if you like.

Working the heel:

Sc in the marked stitch, replace the marker, and now work 14 sc through both top loops across what is now the top of your foot. Ch 1, turn, leaving the other sts unworked. 14 sts equals half the amount of the sock (28 sts). If you have more or less than that, then divide your number in half, and work the heel on that amount of sts instead.

Next row: sc in 14 sts, ch 1, turn. 13 sc.
Next row: sc in 13 sts, ch 1, turn, leaving one stitch unworked. 12 sc.
Next row: sc in 12 sts, ch 1, turn, leaving one stitch unworked. 11 sc.

Continue as established, leaving one stitch unworked until you have 7 sts.

Next row: ch 1, turn, sc 7 sts, sc in side edge of sc just worked and sc in skipped st below. Work ss in side of this sc just made, turn. 9 sc.
Next row: skip ss, sc in 9 sc across, sc in side edge of sc just worked and sc in skipped st below. Work ss in side of this sc just made, turn. 11 sc.

From now on you will not be increasing by two's, but will work a sc2tog to join the "seam" in your short row heel.

Next row: skip ss, sc in 11 sc across, insert hook into side edge of sc just worked, as if to make sc, but instead draw up a loop and do not complete the stitch. Insert hook into next skipped st, draw up a loop, yarn over, and draw through all loops on hook - sc2tog just made. Place a ss in side edge as established before, and turn. 12 sc.

Repeat this row, working back and forth until you have 14 sc. You will note that there is still length to work on before you meet up with the other stitches to continue working in the round. If you just proceed to completing the round and going back to work in a spiral again, you will have holes on either side of your sock. Ensuring that the right side is facing you (if you can see inside the sock then the right side is not facing you - if that is the case, work back across the heel - 14 sc - no worries) work a sc3tog with your 14th sc and that odd little no-man's land before the top of the foot begins again. Work across the front of the sock (14 sts in sc blo), do the same thing on the opposite side.

Leg:

Work 5 rnds in sc blo.

Round 6: work 4 decreases (sc2tog) evenly on this round. 24 sc.
Round 7&8: work even, sc blo, on 24 sts.
Round 9: Work hdc in both top loops of each sc around.
Round 10: Work front post dc around each hdc. Join first st to last with a ss and turn.
Round 11: Work back post dc around each fpdc. Join beg to end with ss and turn.
Round 12: Work fpdc around each bpdc. Join with beg to end with ss, fasten off.

Weave in ends and enjoy your socks.