Sunday, August 18, 2013

Millionaire's Afghan

Looking for the ultimate crocheted afghan pattern?  Look no further than the
Millionaire's Afghan.  With a wide variety of yarn colors and crochet
stitches, this colorful crocheted afghan will brighten up any room in
your home.  This is also a great project for trying new crochet
techniques and practicing your crochet skills.

Millionaire's Afghan
Millionaire's Afghan

Materials:

    2 skeins Naturally Caron Country yarn in Green Sheen (A)
    2 skeins Naturally Caron Country yarn in Loden Forest (B)
    2 skeins Naturally Caron Country yarn in Claret (C)
    2 skeins Naturally Caron Country yarn in Spruce (D)
    2 skeins Naturally Caron Country yarn in Chocolate Truffle (E)
    2 skeins Naturally Caron Country yarn in Gilded Age (F)
    2 skeins Naturally Caron Country yarn in Deep Purple (G)
    1 skein Naturally Caron Country yarn in Sunset (H)
    1 skein Naturally Caron Country yarn in Soft Sunshine (I)
    1 skein Naturally Caron Country yarn in Black (J)
    US H-8 (5mm) crochet hook, or size to obtain gauge
    Removable stitch markers
    Yarn needle
    Diagram



Gauge:  One large square measures 4"/10cm across



Special Stitches:

    beg-Cl: Beginning cluster—Yarn over, insert hook in indicated
ch-space and draw up a loop, yarn over and draw through 2 loops on hook;
 yarn over, insert hook in same ch-space and draw up a loop, yarn over
and draw through 2 loops on hook; yarn over and draw through all 3 loops
 on hook.
    Cl: Cluster—Yarn over, insert hook in indicated ch-space and draw up
 a loop, yarn over and draw through 2 loops on hook; [yarn over, insert
hook in same ch-space and draw up a loop, yarn over and draw through 2
loops on hook] twice; yarn over and draw through all 4 loops on hook.
    FPdc: Front-post double crochet—Yarn over, insert hook from front to
 back and then to front again around post of stitch, yarn over and draw
up loop, [yarn over and draw through 2 loops on hook] twice.
    make-join: Drop loop from hook, insert hook from front to back in
next joining location of top of strip or neighboring piece, return
dropped loop to hook, draw the dropped loop through the stitch or space.



Notes:

    Throw is worked in five long strips. Each strip is worked from the
lower edge upwards, and is made from rectangles, small squares, and
large squares. After all five strips have been made, the strips are
single crocheted together. If desired, all pieces (rectangles, small
squares, and large squares) can be made separately, arranged as shown in
 assembly diagram and sewn or single crocheted together.
    Refer to the assembly diagram frequently. The assembly diagram shows
 the order in which squares and rectangles are made in each strip. The
diagram also shows the colors used when making each piece.
    Large and small squares are worked in joined rounds, with RS facing
at all times. A "join-as-you-go" technique is used to join the squares
to the top of the partially completed strip and previous squares.
Squares are joined to previous pieces while working the last round
(joining round). When the first piece in a strip is a square, the square
 is not joined to any previous pieces.
    Rectangles are worked back and forth in rows. The first row of most
rectangles is worked directly onto the top edge of the partially
completed strip. When the first piece in a strip is a rectangle, the
first row is not worked directly onto the edge of previous pieces.
Instead, a traditional foundation chain and row of single crochet
stitches is worked.
    To change color, work last stitch of old color to last yarn over.
Yarn over with new color and draw through all loops on hook to complete
stitch. Proceed with new color. Fasten off old color.



Instructions:
Throw measures approximately 40"x56"

Strips
Refer to the assembly diagram for arrangement of each strip. Make each
strip from the lower edge upwards. For example, strip #1 begins with a
rectangle, then 4 small squares are made and joined to the top of the
rectangle, 4 more small squares are made and joined to the previous 4
small squares, 2 large squares are then worked and joined to the
previous small squares, and so on.

    Strip #1: Strip #1 is the left most strip. Begin by working a
beginning rectangle (instructions below), working 6 rows with I and 6
rows with D. Continue strip by working and joining small squares, large
squares, and rectangles in the order and color combinations shown in
assembly diagram.
    
    Strip #2: Begin by working a beginning large square (instructions
below), working 2 rounds with C and 2 rounds with J. Continue strip by
working and joining large squares, rectangles, and small squares in the
order and color combinations shown in assembly diagram.
    
    Strip #3: Strip #3 is the center strip. Begin by working a beginning
 rectangle, working 2 rows with H, 2 rows with B and 2 rows with F.
Continue strip by working and joining large squares, rectangles and
small squares in the order and color combinations shown in assembly
diagram.
    
    Strip #4: Begin by working a beginning rectangle, working 3 rows
with A, 2 rows with C, 2 rows with D, 2 rows with G and 3 rows with I.
Continue strip by working and joining small squares, large squares, and
rectangles in the order and color combinations shown in assembly
diagram.
    
    Strip #5: Begin by working a beginning large square, working all 4
rounds with F. Continue strip by working and joining large squares,
rectangles, and small squares in the order and color combinations shown
in assembly diagram.



Beginning Rectangle
Follow these instructions when working first rectangle of strips #1, #3
and #4 only. For all other rectangles, follow the instructions in the
Joined Rectangle section.

Ch 32.

    Row 1 (RS): Sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc in each remaining ch across,
turn—31 sc.
    
    Row 2: Ch 3 (counts as dc here and throughout), dc in each st
across, turn.
    
    Row 3: Ch 1, sc in first dc, *FPdc around next dc, sc in next dc;
repeat from * across, turn.
    
    Refer to assembly diagram for number of rows to be worked in this
rectangle. Repeat Rows 2 and 3 until one less row than specified in
assembly diagram has been worked.
    
    Last Row: Ch 1, sc in each st across.
    
    Fasten off.



Joined Rectangle

    Row 1: With RS facing, join yarn with sc in first corner of
partially completed strip, work 31 more sc evenly spaced across the top
edge of the strip.
    
    Beginning with Row 2, complete rectangle as for beginning rectangle.



Joined Small Square

    With first color, ch 4; join with sl st in first ch to form a ring.
    
    Round 1 (RS): Ch 3 (counts as dc here and throughout), 2 dc in ring,
 ch 3, [3 dc in ring, ch 3] 3 times; join with sl st in top of beginning
 ch—12 dc and 4 ch-3 sps. Fasten off first color. Note: If the same
color is used for Rounds 1 and 2, do not fasten off.

Mark Joining Locations

    Before joining first small square to top of partially completed
strip, place 17 stitch markers evenly spaced across the top edge. Place
the first marker in one corner and the last marker in the opposite
corner. Space the other 15 markers evenly between the first and last
marker. These markers indicate the joining locations for the 4 small
squares that will be joined to the top edge.
    
    When joining the edge of the 2nd, 3rd and 4th small squares to the
edge of the previous small square, the joining locations are the corner
ch-1 sps, and the 3 ch-1 sps across the edge. Place markers in these
locations on the previous small square, if desired.
    
    Work one of the following Round 2 joining rounds, as appropriate.
When instructed to make-join, insert hook in next joining location
(marked location on top of strip, or next joining ch-sp on edge of
previous square).

Joining First Small Square to Top of Strip

    Round 2 (joining round): With RS facing, join 2nd color with sc in
top of beginning ch, ch 1, sk next dc, sc in next dc, ch 1; join next
edge of current square to top of strip, as follows: (sc, ch 1,
make-join, sc) in next ch-3 sp, ch 1, make-join, sc in next dc, ch 1,
make-join, sk next dc, sc in next dc, ch 1, make-join, (sc, ch 1,
make-join, sc) in next ch-3 sp; complete unjoined sides, as follows: *ch
 1, sc in next dc, ch 1, sk next dc, sc in next dc, ch 1, (sc, ch 1, sc)
 in next ch-3 sp; repeat from * around, ch 1; join with sl st in first
sc. Fasten off.
    
    Joining 2nd, 3rd and 4th Small Square to Top of Strip and Previous
Small Square
    
    Round 2 (joining round): With RS facing, join 2nd color with sc in
top of beginning ch, ch 1, sk next dc, sc in next dc; join next edge of
current square to side edge of previous square, as follows: ch 1, (sc,
ch 1, make-join inserting hook in top corner ch-1 sp of previous square,
 sc) in next ch-3 sp, ch 1, make-join, sc in next dc, ch 1, make-join,
sk next dc, sc in next dc, ch 1, make-join, (sc, ch 1, make-join
inserting hook in same joining location as corner of previous square,
sc) in next ch-3 sp; join next edge of current square to top of strip,
as follows: ch 1, make-join, sc in next dc, ch 1, make-join, sk next dc,
 sc in next dc, ch 1, make-join, (sc, ch 1, make-join, sc) in next ch-3
sp; complete unjoined sides, as follows: *ch 1, sc in next dc, ch 1, sk
next dc, sc in next dc, ch 1, (sc, ch 1, sc) in next ch-1 sp, ch 1; join
 with sl st in first sc. Fasten off.
    
    Join 2nd row of small squares in same manner, joining into the ch-1
sps and corner ch-3 sps of the previous row of small squares. Join the
inner corner to the corresponding corner of the square diagonally across
 from the current square.



Beginning Large Square
Follow these instructions when working first square of strips #2 and #5
only. For all other large squares, follow the instructions in the Joined
 Large Square section.

Ch 4; join with sl st in first ch to form a ring.

    Round 1 (RS): Ch 4 (counts as dc, ch 1), [dc in ring, ch 1] 11
times; join with sl st in 3rd ch of beginning ch—12 dc and 12 ch-1 sps.
    
    Round 2: Ch 3, beg-Cl in first ch-1 sp, *ch 3, Cl in next ch-1 sp;
repeat from * around, ch 1, hdc in beg-Cl (forming last ch-sp)—12
clusters and 12 ch-sps.
    
    Round 3: Ch 1, sc in first ch-sp (formed by ch-1, hdc at end of last
 round), *ch 5, sc in next ch-3 sp; repeat from * around, ch 2, dc in
first sc (forming last ch-5 sp)—12 sc and 12 ch-5 sps.
    
    Round 4: Ch 1, sc in first ch-5 sp (formed by last ch-2 and dc of
previous round), ch 5, sc in next ch-5 sp, ch 1, (5 dc, ch 3, 5 dc) in
next ch-5 sp (corner made), *ch 1, sc in next ch-5 sp, ch 5, sc in next
ch-5 sp, ch 1, (5 dc, ch 3, 5 dc) in next ch-5 sp; repeat from * around;
 ch 1, join with sl st in first sc. Fasten off.



Joined Large Square

Mark Joining Locations

    Before joining first large square to top of partially completed
strip, place 9 stitch markers evenly spaced across the top edge. Place
the first marker in one corner and the last marker in the opposite
corner. Space the other 7 markers evenly between the first and last
marker. These markers indicate the joining locations for the 2 large
squares that will be joined to the top edge.
    
    When joining the edge of the 2nd large square to the edge of the
first large square, the joining locations are the corner ch-3 sps and
the center ch-5 sp across the edge. Place markers in these locations on
the previous large square, if desired.
    
    Begin Square: Work same as beginning large square, through Round 3.
Work one of the following Round 4 joining rounds, as appropriate. When
instructed to make-join, insert hook in next joining location (marked
location on top of strip, or next joining ch-sp on edge of first
square).

Joining First Large Square to Top of Strip

    Round 4 (joining round): Ch 1, sc in first ch-5 sp, ch 5, sc in next
 ch-5 sp, ch 1, join next edge of current square to top of strip, as
follows: (5 dc, ch 2, make-join, ch 1, 5 dc) in next ch-5 sp, ch 1, sc
in next ch-5 sp, ch 3, make-join, ch 2, sc in next ch-5 sp, ch 1, (5 dc,
 ch 2, make-join, 5 dc) in next ch-5 sp; complete unjoined sides, as
follows: *ch 1, sc in next ch-5 sp, ch 5, sc in next ch-5 sp, ch 1, (5
dc, ch 3, 5 dc) in next ch-5 sp; repeat from * around; ch 1, join with
sl st in first sc. Fasten off.
    
    Joining 2nd Large Square to Top of Strip and First Large Square
    
    Round 4 (joining round): Ch 1, sc in first ch-sp, ch 5, sc in next
ch-5 sp, ch 1; join next edge of current square to side edge of first
square, as follows: (5 dc, ch 2, make-join inserting hook in top corner
ch-3 sp of first square, ch 1, 5 dc) in next ch-5 sp, ch 1, sc in next
ch-5 sp, ch 3, make-join, ch 2, sc in next ch-5 sp, ch 1, (5 dc, ch 2,
make-join inserting hook in same joining location as corner of first
square, ch 1, 5 dc) in next ch-5 sp; join next edge of current square to
 top of strip, as follows: ch 1, sc in next ch-5 sp, ch 3, make-join, ch
 2, sc in next ch-5 sp, ch 1, (5 dc, ch 2, make-join, ch 1, 5 dc) in
next ch-5 sp; complete unjoined sides, as follows: *ch 1, sc in next
ch-5 sp, ch 5, sc in next ch-5 sp, ch 1, (5 dc, ch 3, 5 dc) in next ch-5
 sp; ch 1, join with sl st in first sc. Fasten off.
    
    Join 2nd row of large squares in same manner, joining into the
corner ch-3 sps and side ch-5 sps of the previous row of large squares.
Join the inner corner to the corresponding corner of the square
diagonally across from the current square.



Finishing

    Using yarn needle, weave in all ends. Block strips.
    
    Seam Strips: Holding WS of strip #1 and strip #2 together (RS facing
 you) and working through both thicknesses, join E with sc at beginning
of strips, sc evenly across to join strips together. Fasten off. Repeat
to join strip #3, #4, and #5.



Edging

With RS facing, join E with sc anywhere in edge of throw.

    Round 1: Sc evenly spaced around all edges, working 3 sc in each
corner; join with sl st in first sc.
    
    Round 2: Ch 1, working in back loops only, sc in each sc around,
working 2 sc in each corner; join witih sl st in first sc. Fasten off.

Bulky Winter Socks

Bulky Winter Socks


No matter how much I want winter to be gone, it ain't going anywhere soon. This is a pair of socks that I made over the last two days. I started and finished the first one while pretending to watch television with everyone last night - sorry, I just can not get into the drama of being a logger. Much like I couldn't get into the riveting thrill of being a crab fisherman or a tar-sands employee driving a big-arsed dump truck. However, The Two Ronnies love that stuff and they like me sitting with them, not upstairs by myself, where I could be working peacefully in my studio room:D

I started the second one last night and finished it this afternoon on my my lunch and late coffee break. For the experienced crocheter, these socks are a mindless way to make the busride home pleasant.

These aren't a sock of the month, but I felt like putting them here, anyway, because they are so quick. I think I might go stash diving to see if I have any more Armytage left because I want to make MORE tonight and tomorrow.

Gauge: about 3.25 sts/inch....."3 and a bit" in sc blo.
Hook: 5.0mm
Yarn: Sean's Sheep "Armytage" in black/white variegated. This is a bulky yarn that is somewhat thick and thin (but not dramatically so). It is very lofty and soft, almost like roving, and very similar to a Bernat yarn made for felting, but a bit thinner. 100% wool. I used two skeins, thinking I would need that much, and I started each sock with a fresh skein, but I had half skeins left over, so I am going to go out on a limb and suggest that up to size 8-9 can get away with one skein....but buy two anyway. Edit: I started on a second pair and no, there is not enough. You need two skeins to make a pair. Damn. I was hopeful.
Cost: about $2/skein.

Chain 7, flip the foundation chain over, and starting with the second chain from the hook, work 6 slip stitches across. Pivot the chain and work 6 single crochet into the top loops. Errata: Pivot the work again and make 6 sc into the 6 ss you worked previously, for a total of 12 sc. Place split ring markers into the side edge stitches of your work.

First increase round:
Work 2 sc before and after each marked stitch.

Second increase round:
Repeat as before.

Third round:
Work even.

Repeat rounds two and three until there are 28 sts. Try it on. If you can get your toes in there, great. If it's too snug, add another increase and work-even round, then try again. If you supsect that 28 sts might be too much, stop at 24 sts and try it on.

When you are ready to work in even rounds, keep one marker to show the beginning of your round, moving it upwards as the work progresses, drop the other marker, and work even in a spiral (not turning or joining), working your single crochet through the back loop only (sc blo). Work until the sock fits to just below the ankle bone. Sc blo produces a nice stretchy fabric that has lots of give, so even if it looks too short, give it a little stretch to see how far up your foot it goes. With sc blo, you can have a bit of negative ease if you like.

Working the heel:

Sc in the marked stitch, replace the marker, and now work 14 sc through both top loops across what is now the top of your foot. Ch 1, turn, leaving the other sts unworked. 14 sts equals half the amount of the sock (28 sts). If you have more or less than that, then divide your number in half, and work the heel on that amount of sts instead.

Next row: sc in 14 sts, ch 1, turn. 13 sc.
Next row: sc in 13 sts, ch 1, turn, leaving one stitch unworked. 12 sc.
Next row: sc in 12 sts, ch 1, turn, leaving one stitch unworked. 11 sc.

Continue as established, leaving one stitch unworked until you have 7 sts.

Next row: ch 1, turn, sc 7 sts, sc in side edge of sc just worked and sc in skipped st below. Work ss in side of this sc just made, turn. 9 sc.
Next row: skip ss, sc in 9 sc across, sc in side edge of sc just worked and sc in skipped st below. Work ss in side of this sc just made, turn. 11 sc.

From now on you will not be increasing by two's, but will work a sc2tog to join the "seam" in your short row heel.

Next row: skip ss, sc in 11 sc across, insert hook into side edge of sc just worked, as if to make sc, but instead draw up a loop and do not complete the stitch. Insert hook into next skipped st, draw up a loop, yarn over, and draw through all loops on hook - sc2tog just made. Place a ss in side edge as established before, and turn. 12 sc.

Repeat this row, working back and forth until you have 14 sc. You will note that there is still length to work on before you meet up with the other stitches to continue working in the round. If you just proceed to completing the round and going back to work in a spiral again, you will have holes on either side of your sock. Ensuring that the right side is facing you (if you can see inside the sock then the right side is not facing you - if that is the case, work back across the heel - 14 sc - no worries) work a sc3tog with your 14th sc and that odd little no-man's land before the top of the foot begins again. Work across the front of the sock (14 sts in sc blo), do the same thing on the opposite side.

Leg:

Work 5 rnds in sc blo.

Round 6: work 4 decreases (sc2tog) evenly on this round. 24 sc.
Round 7&8: work even, sc blo, on 24 sts.
Round 9: Work hdc in both top loops of each sc around.
Round 10: Work front post dc around each hdc. Join first st to last with a ss and turn.
Round 11: Work back post dc around each fpdc. Join beg to end with ss and turn.
Round 12: Work fpdc around each bpdc. Join with beg to end with ss, fasten off.

Weave in ends and enjoy your socks.

Friday, August 16, 2013

Ribbed Slipper Pattern

Ribbed Slipper Pattern

This slipper has the front and back post dc's around the entire slipper. I think this gives the slipper a thick textured around the entire foot.

So here is my pattern for the ribbed slipper
Materials:
Worsted Weight Yarn
Size g hook

Easy Broomstick Lace Collar, or Scarf, Pattern

Easy Broomstick Lace Collar, or Scarf, Pattern

March 7, 2012
broomstick lace collar scarf
This is a super-easy project for learning broomstick lace. I really shouldn’t even call it a pattern! I made this one with some really soft lighter weight yarn (kinda like a Caron Simply Soft), but this is flexible – you can use anything you’d like. I really wanted to get a shot of this being worn, but Nicky hasn’t been available during daylight hours to take pictures. I tried to get Penny to model it, but he was not having it. Not at all. Ready to make this lacy collar/neck gaiter/cowl/scarf? Let’s do it:

Wednesday, August 14, 2013

Chunky Braided Cowl

If you know me you know I love chunky yarns! I've seen these fun braided scarf popping up everywhere and they are very simple to make. Here is my version of a Chunky Braided Cowl. Enjoy! 
Chunky Braided Cowl

Tuesday, August 13, 2013

Cottage Relaxation Granny Afghan

Hits: 1037

CottagerelaxationafghanCottage Relaxation Granny Afghan

by Michael Sellick - The Crochet Crowd
©2012 The Crochet Crowd
Square Afghan will measure approximately 5.25 Feet square using 14 balls of 100 g or 3.5 oz yarn balls. Use more balls if desired to be bigger. 
Each square took me roughly 9 minutes each to complete. This afghan has 128 squares and was assembled on a diagonal instead of horizontal axis. To get the same size in a horizontal axis, you will need 143 squares instead and you will need 3 extra balls to pull off the 143 squares. 
11 Balls were used for the squares and three were used for the attaching and perimeter of this afghan.

Monday, August 12, 2013

http://www.allfreecrochet.com/Crochet-Videos/How-to-Make-a-Knotless-Russian-Join/ct/1


Learn how to make a knotless Russian join with Emi Harrington. This is a really neat technique that will leave your patterns flawless. Watch this video, get some free crochet patterns and practice! Related Projects
Read more at http://www.allfreecrochet.com/Crochet-Videos/How-to-Make-a-Knotless-Russian-Join/ct/1#QevxOwr2zg9AgxWq.99
Learn how to make a knotless Russian join with Emi Harrington. This is a really neat technique that will leave your patterns flawless. Watch this video, get some free crochet patterns and practice! Related Projects
Read more at http://www.allfreecrochet.com/Crochet-Videos/How-to-Make-a-Knotless-Russian-Join/ct/1#QevxOwr2zg9AgxWq.99

Free Crochet Pattern... Meringue Cowl

Free Crochet Pattern... Meringue Cowl


The Meringue Cowl is a sweet and simple cowl that works up lightning fast.  Like a luscious dollop of meringue, this cowl is worked in a beautiful and easy to crochet v-stitch.  A great project for quick gifts, but don't forget to make yourself one too!

Meringue Cowl
By Jennifer Dickerson

Materials:

  • N (9.0 mm) Crochet Hook
  • 1 Skein Lion Brand Wool Ease Thick and Quick (Colorway shown in "Fisherman")
  • Tapestry Needle (for weaving in ends)
Sizing: 
  • Width-Scarf shown is 6 inches wide, but you can easily make your scarf wider by working more rows.
  • Circumference-Cowl pictured is 24 inches around. 



Instructions:

(Cowl is worked lengthwise and seamed)

Ch 49 (To change circumference sizing, chain in multiples of 15+4).

Foundation Row: In the 4th chain from the hook, work dc, ch 1, dc in the same ch. *Skip two chains and then in the next ch, work dc, ch 1, dc in the same ch. Repeat from * to end.

Row 1: Turn, ch 3 and work dc, ch 1, dc in each of the chain 1 spaces from the previous row (center of each "V"). At the end of the row, finish with a dc in the last space (ch 3 turning space).

Repeat row 1 until desired width is reached.  Cowl shown is a total of 6 rows of stitch pattern, with yarn leftovers.

Finishing:

Seam and weave in any ends.  I left a long tail when I was finished and just used that to seam it together.